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Brass until you print abrasives, then hardened steel; the one size change worth making is 0.4 to 0.6 mm.
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The reference brass nozzle and the right one for PLA and PETG. Cheap enough to keep spares and treat a stubborn clog as a part swap rather than a repair. Buy the 0.6 mm alongside the 0.4 mm: walls print close to 50 percent faster and the detail loss is hard to spot past arm’s length. Worst at abrasives, which hollow it out within a spool or two.
Splits the melt path into three channels for roughly 30 percent more flow, which is what a fast printer needs to actually print fast. Brass, so the same abrasive limit as the E3D. Worst value on a slow bed slinger that never reaches the flow it unlocks.
Nickel plating resists the residue stock nozzles collect, so PETG stops sticking to the tip. The dependable mid-price upgrade. Worst at carbon fiber: the plating wears through and then it is a brass nozzle.
Hardened tool steel with a non-stick coating, so it takes carbon fiber and glow filament without the residue buildup plain hardened steel gets. Conducts heat worse than brass, so print 5 to 10 °C hotter. Worst at flow rate; pair it with a slower profile.
The nozzle on a Bambu is part of the hotend, so this is the only abrasive-ready option for the P and X series and the A1. Swaps in under a minute without tools. Worst at price per nozzle, because you are buying a heater and thermistor every time.
A polycrystalline diamond tip prints everything, indefinitely, and conducts heat better than brass rather than worse. Expensive; it only pays for itself on a machine fed abrasives daily. Worst at the first week, when the tip needs its own flow calibration.