DELACK Enclosure Kit Review

The DELACK enclosure kit from 3D Sourcerer makes sense if you want a clear cabinet around your existing Prusa printer and don’t mind building it. You get prepared acrylic panels and hardware, then print the fittings yourself. It can sit on a desk or an IKEA Lack table without turning the table into part of the enclosure.

I’d consider it for a Prusa Mini or MK4 when visibility and a compact footprint matter. The catch is the work between opening the box and enclosing your printer. It’s also a starting point for ventilation, rather than a complete fume-control system.

What comes with DELACK, and what you still need

The kit supplies the clear panels, including the door and its frame, plus fasteners, magnets and rubber plugs for the feet and unused holes. It also includes bearings for a printable spool roller, an LED strip with a 5V power supply, and a USB-A/USB-C thumb drive. The plastic brackets shown in product photos aren’t included. The thumb drive isn’t the Mini’s optional USB-port extension kit.

You’ll need a working printer, filament and basic hand tools. Have an Allen key for the supplied bolts and needle-nose pliers available. The panels arrive cut and drilled, so you aren’t expected to make the enclosure walls yourself.

The standard print list covers feet, corners, supports, a door knob, hinges, latches, a nameplate and a cable cover. Fan-opening and corner covers are optional prints; I’d include the corner covers because the acrylic edges can be sharp. Lighting and spool-holder parts need their own files, too.

3D Sourcerer estimates roughly half a kilogram of filament for its build. Allow more for accessories and failed prints. Its recommended settings are a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.20mm layers. The LED guide recommends a more heat-resistant plastic such as PETG and confirms that its parts fit the Mini’s print bed.

No IKEA tables are required. You supply a stable surface; a Lack table is simply one option.

Budget separately for a camera or ventilation. Printable mounts don’t include the devices they hold. The suggested fan setup needs its own 12V supply, with a speed controller optional. The included 5V lighting supply shouldn’t be treated as the power source for that fan. A filter, duct and any additional mounting prints also add to the job.

Check that DELACK leaves your printer enough room

The advertised enclosure size is 550 × 486 × 450mm, or about 21.7 × 19.1 × 17.7 inches. The 550mm length runs front to back. Use those figures to plan desk space: brackets, lighting and other fittings take up room inside. If your setup is a close fit, ask for measurements beneath the supports and light before ordering.

3D Sourcerer explicitly lists the Prusa Mini, MK4 and MK3 series. Its Prusa guide says the Mini and MK4 need no modifications for fit, while the MK3 requires a replacement heated-bed cable cover. That tells you whether the printer fits; temperature limits still matter.

For a Mini, the maker’s internal spool-holder design raises the roll beside the printer. That can save space outside, but you still need room to load the spool and route filament without catching on moving parts.

MK4S owners should get confirmation for their exact setup before buying. A named Reddit owner reports using DELACK with an MK4S, and the maker displays an MK4S customer testimonial. However, its main compatibility list and fit instructions still name the MK4. Those reports don’t establish clearances for every MK4S accessory combination.

Measure the space your bed and cables occupy through their full movement, not just the printer standing still. Include the filament path at maximum print height. Leave room for the door to swing, your hands to remove the build plate, and any rear fan or duct.

Check any stone slab or concrete paver under your printer, too. One MK4 owner reported that a roughly three-quarter-inch slab raised the printer enough for the hot end to touch the LED bar at maximum height. Another owner removed a paver because of limited overhead room. Raising the printer can turn an otherwise workable fit into a collision during calibration.

Building DELACK and using it day to day

Use 3D Sourcerer’s online Prusa assembly guide and its linked Printables files. The guide provides a numbered print list and illustrated steps; accessory pages cover the light and spool holder. Plan around those web instructions. A complete official downloadable assembly PDF isn’t confirmed.

Printing takes much longer than fastening the panels together. The maker’s reference is 46 hours on an MK4 at 0.20mm using Quality settings, without input shaping, the motion feature that helps the printer run faster. That’s printing time, not assembly time or a promise for your printer.

Choose your door’s opening direction, lighting and cable routes before printing. Otherwise, you may finish a perfectly good bracket and discover you need a different version. For a beginner, these choices are a bigger burden than the basic bolted construction.

Owner feedback is encouraging but specific. One MK4 builder found the parts fitted well, yet described the LED assembly as fiddly and disliked moving between panels as the instructions progressed. Another owner called assembly fairly easy and reported quick email replies. Neither account establishes a typical build time or guaranteed support response.

Once assembled, the clear sides let you see the printer from more than one angle, and the light helps you inspect the print area. The removable top also helps with maintenance, provided your shelf leaves room to lift it.

Spool handling deserves a trial before a long print. In one owner discussion, one person disliked the roller holder while another said it worked fine but preferred Prusa’s holder. That’s mixed experience, not evidence of a recurring defect. With the Mini’s internal holder, you put the roll onto a printed rod, then slide that assembly into its mount.

What DELACK can do for heat, noise and fumes

DELACK’s panels offer a way to shield the printer from drafts and retain some heat from the heated bed. That can help with ASA and ABS, plastics whose parts can curl away from the bed as they cool unevenly. But there’s no reliable DELACK-specific test establishing a chamber temperature or a repeatable improvement in warping.

An MK4S owner reported better ASA printing after enclosing a machine previously exposed to air-conditioning drafts. That’s a useful example of the problem DELACK may solve. It doesn’t tell you how a large part will behave in your room, with your bed temperature and ventilation running.

For PLA, the common beginner filament, keeping everything closed can be counterproductive. Prusa warns that a hot, unventilated enclosure can let filament soften too far above the nozzle and cause a blockage. Be prepared to open the door or remove the top when heat builds up. PETG also needs its own material settings; don’t assume every plastic benefits from the warmest possible enclosure.

Heat affects the printer as well as the print. DELACK’s guide calls power-supply relocation optional, but Prusa’s guidance for acrylic Lack enclosures says to place the power supply outside. Follow your printer maker’s instructions when planning sustained hot printing, including suitable cable routing and any required frame support. The enclosure maker’s report of trouble-free use isn’t a temperature rating for your electronics.

For noise, expect a possible reduction in some sounds, not silence. One MK4 owner described less fan noise and less high-pitched sound, without meter readings or a controlled comparison. Don’t choose DELACK on a promised decibel reduction or assume it will make a printer comfortable beside your bed.

The base kit doesn’t provide filtration or powered exhaust. Its fan opening and accessory mounts let you add them. A HEPA filter captures particles; gases require suitable gas-filter media or effective exhaust. Neither clear panels nor reduced odor proves that the air is safe to breathe.

For fume control, plan capture and ventilation as part of the purchase. NIOSH recommends controls such as ventilated enclosures and local exhaust that removes emissions near their source. DELACK offers a four-inch duct adapter, but no validated airflow specification for a completed duct-and-filter installation. A fan that physically fits isn’t proof that it moves enough air through your chosen filter and duct.

The same limit applies to other advertised possibilities: a humidity-gauge mount doesn’t make DELACK a filament dryer, and the acrylic cabinet shouldn’t be treated as a fire-rated enclosure.

Does the completed DELACK build make sense for you?

DELACK’s clearest value is getting prepared panels and matching hardware while keeping control over the printed fittings. If you enjoy that work and already have a suitable desk, it saves you the separate task of sourcing and preparing acrylic for a DIY Lack build. That’s a practical advantage even without claiming that one complete build is always cheaper.

For a Mini, the closest useful alternative is the Original Prusa MINI Enclosure. It comes with the plastic parts needed for its basic assembly, so you can skip DELACK’s printing stage. It still arrives as a kit, and lighting and filtration are optional extras. Compare both with the accessories you actually want. Prusa’s larger Original Prusa Enclosure is a separate product; “Prusa enclosure” doesn’t identify one universal cabinet.

Check purchase terms before starting the build. 3D Sourcerer’s return policy requires unused condition and original packaging, with exclusions including sale items. Don’t assume you can assemble DELACK, discover a clearance problem and return it. Ask the seller how to get a replacement panel and what the warranty covers.

For India, an import listing exists, but local manufacturer-backed support and warranty coverage remain unconfirmed. Get the seller’s shipping, import-charge and return terms in writing rather than applying US buying advice to that order.

I’d choose DELACK for a supported printer when you want clear walls, flexible spool routing and a project you can customize. Skip it if you need something immediately usable, can’t confirm your printer’s clearance, or need proven emissions control from the supplied package. Its appeal depends on being happy to finish the enclosure yourself.