DimaFix Pen Review

DimaFix Pen deserves a look if you print ABS on heated glass and keep getting lifted corners. It’s a bottle of liquid bed adhesive with a sponge applicator: you spread it where the print will sit, let it dry, then heat the bed. You can put the adhesive just where you need it and clean it off with water, and the ABS-on-glass results are encouraging.

The catch is that it needs heat to grip well, and the coating adds work between prints. I’d consider it for that glass-bed setup before buying it for everyday PLA printing or an unverified PEI plate.

Does DimaFix Pen suit your bed and filament?

Heated glass is the clearest fit. DimaFix’s documentation emphasizes the bond between plastic and glass, and printer-maker instructions specifically describe using the Pen on glass. That doesn’t automatically include glass plates with a manufacturer’s own coating. Check what your print surface actually is before applying anything to it.

ABS is the strongest reason to consider the Pen. This plastic can shrink enough during cooling to pull corners away from the bed, a problem called warping. ASA is another material to consider it for: filament supplier Fillamentum recommends the Pen for both materials, and a Pen owner reports success with ABS/ASA. The comparison described below used ABS, however, so don’t assume identical ASA results.

PLA and PETG need a more careful decision. One Pen owner recommends it for both, but doesn’t identify the bed surface or temperatures. PLA commonly uses a bed around 50–60°C, where DimaFix may offer little extra grip. Don’t raise the temperature beyond your filament’s recommended range just to make the adhesive work harder.

PEI is a plastic coating used on many print plates. Smooth PEI usually has a flat film surface; textured PEI has a rougher, powder-coated surface. They need separate care, and neither is automatically approved for DimaFix Pen.

For smooth PEI, extra grip may be the wrong goal. Prusa warns that PETG can stick too firmly and recommends a glue-stick separation layer if you use its smooth sheet. That layer helps protect the surface during removal; it isn’t an endorsement of DimaFix as a substitute. For textured PEI, follow the sheet maker’s material guidance first. Prusa recommends its powder-coated sheets for PETG, so another adhesive may be unnecessary.

For flexible TPU, polycarbonate (PC), nylon and fiber-filled materials, check the exact filament-and-plate combination. Listings and individual owners mention these uses, but they don’t establish a dependable setting or release routine for every blend.

How DimaFix Pen holds prints as the bed heats

DimaFix’s grip changes with temperature. The useful question is whether it holds firmly enough throughout your print, not simply whether it has started becoming sticky.

The brand’s general page describes activation above 50°C. Pen-specific seller guidance variously puts weak grip below 60°C or 65°C, while FormFutura’s Pen instructions say to keep the bed above 85°C during printing. These numbers don’t form one agreed schedule. Initial activation and useful holding strength are different things, and some published charts cover the wider DimaFix family.

A 2019 hands-on comparison gives a concrete example. It used the sponge-applicator Pen with rigid.ink ABS on an Ultimaker 3’s 4mm borosilicate glass, without a door or top cover. Settings were 245°C at the nozzle and 95°C at the bed. A roughly 150mm-long test shape printed without reported warping with both three and six bottom layers, without an extra printed border or support base. DimaFix gave the best adhesion in that comparison. The coating dose wasn’t measured, so this is a useful result for one setup, not a universal temperature recommendation.

Start within the temperatures allowed by your filament, printer and plate. If those don’t suit the Pen’s instructions, choose another adhesive. Check any programmed temperature reduction after the first layer, too: a good start doesn’t prove the remaining print will stay attached.

For larger or longer jobs, keep the bed temperature steady. DimaFix can help hold the bottom down, but it doesn’t remove the need to control cooling and drafts. ABS and ASA may still need an enclosure.

Applying DimaFix Pen without an uneven coating

The Pen is convenient when you want to coat a small area with the plate still installed. You can put adhesive under the model without spraying the printer’s interior. That’s particularly useful when removing the plate is awkward.

Start with a cold, clean surface. Remove old adhesive and contamination using the plate maker’s approved cleaning method, then let the surface dry. Shake the Pen well before use and spread a thin, even coating over the area the print will occupy. Include any brim—the flat border you may add around a model to help it stay attached.

Let the adhesive dry before heating the bed. Printer-maker dddrop’s exact-Pen instructions confirm that sequence for its glass beds. Close the bottle after use, and don’t try to refresh the coating while the plate is hot.

Take care with the liquid itself. The manufacturer-issued Pen safety sheet classifies it as highly flammable and warns about eye irritation and dizziness from exposure. Apply it with good ventilation, away from ignition sources, wearing the protective gloves and eye protection specified by the label. Follow the label supplied with your bottle. A sponge applicator doesn’t make the liquid harmless.

The main application drawback is getting an even layer. Thick strokes can leave a pattern on the bottom of the print, particularly on smooth glass. The ABS comparison also reported a smooth but matte underside. For a part whose underside will be visible, try a small sample before committing to the full model.

Coating a large plate evenly also takes more work with a sponge than covering a small patch. DimaFix spray can distribute a finer layer quickly across a removable plate, but stray spray can reach nearby surfaces. Choose based on how easily you can reach the plate and how much you need to coat. That doesn’t tell you whether the two formats hold equally well.

Removing prints and cleaning off DimaFix Pen

Let the plate cool before removing the print. DimaFix is designed to lose grip as it cools, but don’t treat a particular temperature as a promise that the part will fall off.

Owner experiences vary. A Pen owner reports substantial grip remaining after cooling. Separately, a DimaFix discussion includes both successful PEI use and a torn PEI surface; the reports don’t consistently identify Pen versus spray. They don’t establish a recurring Pen defect, but they also don’t justify a damage-free guarantee. If a cooled print remains firmly attached, stop pulling and follow your plate maker’s removal guidance.

For cleanup, DimaFix explicitly says the Pen is water-soluble. On compatible glass, use water and a soft cloth to remove residue, then dry the plate. Keep water away from the printer’s electronics. dddrop’s Pen guide specifies water alone for its glass plates, so don’t assume stronger cleaners are necessary.

Inspect the coating between prints. Owners describe touching up worn areas while the bed is cold, then washing everything off when repeated patches become uneven. Use the condition of the coating to decide; there’s no dependable fixed number of prints between recoating or cleaning.

Is DimaFix Pen worth buying for your setup?

I’d buy DimaFix Pen for heated-glass ABS printing when corners still lift after the bed is clean and the first layer is properly adjusted. The combination of promising ABS results, precise placement and water cleanup makes it worth trying. Be willing to apply an even coat, wait for cooling and maintain the surface between jobs.

The 90ml Pen remains listed by US suppliers. Its value depends on how much of the plate you coat and how often you replace that coating. Claims of more than 100 uses don’t define the area or amount applied, so they can’t tell you your cost per print. Nor does a larger spray can’s stated volume tell you how many equivalent coatings it will provide.

If your existing glue stick already gives you reliable prints and easy removal, keep using it. Buying another adhesive needs to solve an actual problem, whether that’s lifted corners, messy application or difficult cleanup. For PLA on a suitable clean PEI sheet, I’d start with the sheet maker’s routine before adding DimaFix.

Magigoo Original is the closest useful alternative if you like a liquid applicator. Its maker lists PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, HIPS and TPU, and its pen releases adhesive when you press the nib against the plate. It still needs an even coating and the correct surface and temperature settings. One DimaFix owner prefers the Pen’s water cleanup to base Magigoo; that isn’t enough to declare either product better for everyone. Basic PVA glue sticks also remain a valid choice where the plate maker recommends them.

If you prefer spraying, 3DLAC Plus is a separate 100ml spray-bottle option intended for glass and mirrors. Consider it for the format, without assuming it matches DimaFix’s results on your material.

DimaFix Pen makes the most sense when you need stronger attachment on heated glass and want control over where the adhesive goes. Skip it when your current routine works, your printing temperatures are too low, or your plate’s compatibility is uncertain.