Inland PLA+ Review

I’d try Inland PLA+ for models, desk organizers and prototypes that help you check a design’s shape. I’d buy one spool if Micro Center is convenient and you’re comfortable making a few small adjustments to your printer’s settings.

The main drawback is that choosing the right spool takes more care than the name suggests. Inland sells several similar PLA products, and the “+” doesn’t establish how much stronger your finished part will be. If ordinary PLA already does what you need, there’s no clear reason to switch just for that label.

Check Which Inland PLA+ You’re Buying

This review covers standard Inland PLA+ in 1.75mm diameter on a 1kg spool, particularly ordinary solid colors. Filament is the plastic strand fed into the printer. Check your printer’s required diameter before buying a replacement roll; 1.75mm and 2.85mm aren’t interchangeable.

For example, Micro Center lists the white version as SKU 989426, part number PLA-175W1. Other colors have different product numbers. Check the full product name as well as the color, especially when moving between listings.

Inland is Micro Center’s house brand. PLA is a common 3D-printing plastic; PLA+ has added ingredients intended to change its properties. There’s no single PLA+ formula shared by every brand. Similar specifications don’t establish that Inland is identical to eSUN or another supplier’s filament.

The naming is confusing: some standard PLA+ descriptions also say “PLA PRO (PLA+).” That wording doesn’t prove that every separately labeled PRO spool has the same formulation. Ordinary PLA, PLA Basic and PLA+ High Speed also appear in the lineup. Treat them as separate choices, and don’t carry this review’s settings or conclusions over to them automatically.

What To Expect From Inland PLA+ Prints

There’s a useful example of what Inland PLA+ can look like: a reported hands-on print of the Happy Pot model in Inland Blue, made on an Anycubic Kobra, had a smooth surface. That supports choosing it for decorative shapes. The example doesn’t include nozzle size, layer height or a full settings record, so it can’t establish a repeatable finish across printers and colors.

You may still need to adjust settings for smaller details. One Dark Blue PLA+ owner reported decent keychains at 220°C but persistent fine strings between features. These form when plastic keeps flowing from the nozzle, the printer’s heated tip, as it moves between separate areas.

That’s an individual experience, not evidence that stringing is a widespread Inland fault. A smooth pot doesn’t promise clean results on a model with lots of tiny, separate details.

For durability, separate three questions: does the part resist breaking, does it resist bending, and does it keep its shape when warm? A material can improve in one area without improving in the others. The “+” alone answers none of them.

Micro Center advertises increased toughness, but that claim doesn’t tell you how much harder your own prints will be to break. Without a comparable printed-part test, I wouldn’t pay extra expecting a known strength improvement over ordinary PLA.

Layer bonding—how well the printed layers stick together—also depends on your printing settings. A good-looking surface doesn’t tell you how firmly those layers joined.

I’d consider it for an indoor organizer or a prototype you’ll pick up and examine. For a clip that bends repeatedly, a bracket that holds weight or a part left in a hot car, choose a material with relevant performance data.

If two printed pieces must fit together, print a small sample of their connection first. A filament-diameter tolerance tells you how much the strand’s thickness can vary, not how accurately the finished pieces will fit.

Getting Inland PLA+ Printing Well

Start with your printer’s PLA profile, or saved settings, in the slicer—the software that turns a model into printing instructions. Check its temperatures against the label on your spool. Nozzle heat melts the filament; bed heat warms the build plate that the print sits on.

The standard white PLA+ listing specifies a 205–225°C nozzle and 60–80°C bed. Micro Center’s broader Inland guide instead gives PLA+ a 45–60°C bed range. That disagreement matters: don’t assume 80°C is necessary.

A 215°C nozzle and 60°C bed are reasonable starting points where your build plate’s instructions allow them. The bed setting falls within both published ranges; these settings still need checking on your printer.

An X1 Carbon owner reported calibrating silver, black, white and red Inland PLA+ at 220°C using OrcaSlicer’s 0.20mm Standard preset with modified first-layer speeds. That supports trying 220°C, but doesn’t establish a universal profile or speed limit.

If the first layer won’t stick, clean the plate as its maker directs. Check the printer’s first-layer calibration so the nozzle deposits plastic against the plate at the correct distance. Slowing that layer gives the plastic more time to stick. Raising bed temperature alone won’t correct dirt or the wrong nozzle distance.

For stringing, try lowering nozzle temperature by 5°C within the spool’s recommended range to reduce oozing. Moisture can also cause strings. Retraction briefly pulls filament back to limit oozing during travel; start with your printer’s recommended setting because the amount needed depends on its feed mechanism.

If layers split apart, check that the layer height—the thickness of each printed layer—is within the range recommended for your nozzle. Layers that are too thick may not press firmly onto the layer below. If the height is suitable, try a higher nozzle temperature within the recommended range; plastic that’s too cool may not bond well.

Keep the printer’s PLA cooling defaults initially. Change one setting at a time so you can tell what helped.

Inland PLA+ Spool Fit And Buying Costs

Check the roll as carefully as the filament. Inland PLA+ comes on cardboard spools, though you shouldn’t assume every version uses the same spool. Look for damaged rims and make sure the roll turns freely on your holder.

Micro Center’s standard white listing gives a spool diameter of about 206.5mm, a width of 71.4mm, and a center hole of 50.8mm. Treat those as listed dimensions to check against the actual roll, rather than a guarantee covering every color and packaging revision.

For Bambu’s original AMS automatic filament feeder, the official supported spool width is 50–68mm. The listed Inland width exceeds that, so don’t buy it assuming a direct fit.

Bambu also recommends adapters for cardboard rims to reduce slipping and debris. An adapter won’t make an overly wide spool narrower. Use an appropriate external holder or confirm a compatible spool arrangement first. This guidance covers the original AMS model; other feeder models need their own checks.

Inland’s buying advantage is strongest when you can collect a spool locally. Micro Center also lists filament online, though pickup and shipping options depend on the item. PLA Basic is the cheaper Inland option to consider for simple decorative prints. Compare equal filament weights and include shipping or any spool accessories before deciding whether PLA+ is worth the extra cost.

When Inland PLA+ Makes Sense For You

Buy one spool of Inland PLA+ if you want everyday indoor prints, like an available color, and can fit the roll to your printer without much fuss. A small first project will help you settle the temperatures and check the finish before committing to a long print.

Choose ordinary PLA or Inland PLA Basic if your main goal is a decorative object and you have no specific need for modified material. There’s little value in paying more for a toughness claim your project doesn’t depend on.

If your priority is automatic feeding without adapters, choose a spool explicitly supported by your feeder. For repeated bending, heat or a part that holds weight for long periods, look for test results that match that job.